Lisa Goodwin-Allen, executive chef of Northcote, Langho
What is your current role and what does it involve?
I’m the executive chef at Northcote which means I am ultimately responsible for everything that comes out of the kitchen. I lead the team, overseeing everything from creating new menus and ensuring we have the best produce, to working with local suppliers in the right way and ensuring that we maintain the highest standards that the restaurant has become known for.
How long have you been a chef?
I trained as a chef straight out of school, it’s all I’ve ever done or wanted to do really. I’m 43 now so I’ll let you do the maths as to how long I’ve been a chef.
I joined Northcote when I was 20 and then became chef de partie after a year. The following year I was junior sous chef and then the following year I was head chef. I think at the time I was one of the youngest chefs to take on a head chef role in a Michelin starred kitchen, so it was a huge moment for me, and one I’m very proud of.
How did you first get into cooking?
Food was always a real focal point in our house. My mum makes an amazing shepherd’s pie, and a lot of my early memories involve us getting together round the table and eating. So, I guess it stemmed from that. Nowadays I always try to bring an element of nostalgia into my dishes, I think it really resonates with people who have happy memories of eating different dishes as a child.
Where did you learn your craft?
I went to Lancaster & Morecambe College and trained there and then after graduating, I worked in several restaurants, including the two Michelin starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Gloucester. That’s where I really began to put all of the theory and what I’d learnt at college into practice.
I wanted to learn as much as I could, so I would go into the kitchens on my days off and watch the other chefs and help out where I could. It gave me a really good grounding into how a Michelin star kitchen works.
What is your signature dish?
My signature dish? That has to be apple pie, it’s a signature to my style as I like to cook with seasons and as I mentioned, I love something that’s nostalgic. Apple pie was always on the dinner table at home when I was growing up. I always try to creatively reinvent a classic, keeping that humbling flavour, but adding something that people don’t expect.
What’s been your worst cooking disaster?
The worst cooking disasters I have had have always involved souffles, especially for a big party. Souffles are temperamental at the best of times but when you’re cooking over 100 of them at an event, and they decide to explode then you have an issue on your hands! This has happened to me a few times.
Christmas is a good example of when things can go wrong with them too. We once had a Christmas pudding souffle on the menu at Northcote. When you are putting alcohol into them, it can react with the egg whites and break them down. The result… they don’t rise, and you have to start all over again!
What are your culinary ambitions?
I’m hugely passionate about the hospitality industry and about food, so progression is very important to me, both in terms of food style and being a mentor. I want to achieve and see as much as possible. Travel has a huge influence on my dishes and can help the creative juices flow, so I want to see more places and travel as much as possible.
What do you like to eat?
When we go out, I love sharing foods – Italian or Spanish dishes are brilliant for this. Anything where you can all sit around the table and share dishes is a really nice, sociable way to dine.
I love food that is cooked over fire too. I love to cook on the BBQ and mix it up by using different flavours, rubs and seasoning.
At home we like to eat a lot of classics, things like spaghetti bolognaise and lasagne. Friday night is always pizza night for us.
How do you achieve a work/life balance?
For me, it’s important to have discipline and structure. I have a young son, so it’s important to be present when I’m with him and fully focused, and it’s the same when I’m in the kitchen.
Northcote Northcote Rd, Langho, Lancashire, BB6 8BE
Tel: 01254 240555
www.northcote.com
Open Monday-Sunday
Steeped in history dating back to 1880, Northcote offers a luxurious escape in Lancashire’s beautiful Ribble Valley. Originally a private residence, Northcote has been transformed into a haven of unparalleled hospitality. Featuring 26 individually styled bedrooms, in an intimate and relaxing setting. Michelin-starred Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen leads the award-winning restaurant, crafting exquisite dishes that celebrate the bounty of Lancashire’s fresh, seasonal produce. Northcote promises a unique blend of modern elegance and timeless charm.
Lisa Goodwin-Allen is a Taste Lancashire Ambassador, supporting the work of Marketing Lancashire to raise awareness of local food and drink producers through their Taste Lancashire campaigns and activities. www.visitlancashire.com/Taste
Lisa’s nostalgic and delicious Apple Pie recipe
Makes 1 x 22cm pie
Ingredients
For the pastry: 225g soft unsalted butter, 50g golden caster sugar, 1 whole egg, 1 egg yolk, 350g plain flour
For the filling: 500g apples (Bramley), 70g golden caster sugar, ¼ tsp cinnamon
Method
1. Beat the caster sugar and unsalted butter together until fluffy.
2. Beat in the eggs until smooth, then fold in the flour.
3. Leave to rest for a minimum of an hour.
4. In the meantime, prepare the filling.
5. Peel, core and quarter your apples, then slice as per demo.
6. Toss the sliced apple in the dry ingredients and leave to sit for around an hour. 7. Roll out 1/3 of the pastry and line the base of your pie tin with it.
8. Strain off any liquid that has come out from the apples then stuff the apples evenly into the base of the pie.
9. Roll out the remaining 2/3 of the pastry and lay over the top of your pie, ensuring you have egg washed the edge of your pie to seal. Trim the pastry to shape and crimp the edges with your fingers.
10. Make 5 small slices in the top of the pie lid, in a star pattern to allow steam out and stop the pastry going soggy. Egg wash and sprinkle with golden caster sugar.
11. Bake at 190°c for 25-30 minutes.
Serve with: Grated Nutmeg Pouring Cream Slab of a Tasty Lancashire Cheese
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